Frequently Asked Plumbing Questions
Q: How can I prevent drain clogs?
No plumbing problem is more common or more frustrating than a clogged drain. Kitchen sinks clog most often because of grease that traps food particles while hair and soap are often at fault in bathroom drains. Drains can usually be cleared easily and inexpensively, but taking some
simple precautions will help you avoid stop-ups. Proper disposal of kitchen waste will keep sink drain clogs to a minimum.
• Don't pour grease down the kitchen sink.
• Don't wash coffee grounds down the sink. Throw them out.
• Be sparing with chemical cleaners, particularly if you have brass, steel, or cast-iron traps and drainpipes; some caustic chemicals can corrode metal pipes.
• If used no more than once every few months, cleaners containing sodium hydroxide or sodium nitrate can be safe and effective.
• Clean floor drain strainers. Some tubs, showers, and basement floor drains have strainers that are screwed into the drain opening. You can easily remove these strainers and reach down into the drain with a bent wire to clear out accumulated debris. And be sure to scrub the strainer.
• Clean pop-up stoppers in the bathroom sink and the tub regularly. Lift out sink pop-ups once a week and rinse them off.
• Every few months, remove the overflow plate on a tub and pull up the pop-up assembly to reach the spring or rocker arm. Remove accumulated hair and rinse thoroughly.
• Keep the sewer pipes from the house free of tree roots that may invade them. If roots are a particular problem in your yard, you may need to
call in professionals once a year or so to clear the pipes. They'll use an electric auger to cut out the roots.
• Flush the drain-waste and vent systems whenever you go up onto your house roof to clean out downspouts or gutters. Run water from a garden hose into all vents, giving them a minute or two of full flow.
simple precautions will help you avoid stop-ups. Proper disposal of kitchen waste will keep sink drain clogs to a minimum.
• Don't pour grease down the kitchen sink.
• Don't wash coffee grounds down the sink. Throw them out.
• Be sparing with chemical cleaners, particularly if you have brass, steel, or cast-iron traps and drainpipes; some caustic chemicals can corrode metal pipes.
• If used no more than once every few months, cleaners containing sodium hydroxide or sodium nitrate can be safe and effective.
• Clean floor drain strainers. Some tubs, showers, and basement floor drains have strainers that are screwed into the drain opening. You can easily remove these strainers and reach down into the drain with a bent wire to clear out accumulated debris. And be sure to scrub the strainer.
• Clean pop-up stoppers in the bathroom sink and the tub regularly. Lift out sink pop-ups once a week and rinse them off.
• Every few months, remove the overflow plate on a tub and pull up the pop-up assembly to reach the spring or rocker arm. Remove accumulated hair and rinse thoroughly.
• Keep the sewer pipes from the house free of tree roots that may invade them. If roots are a particular problem in your yard, you may need to
call in professionals once a year or so to clear the pipes. They'll use an electric auger to cut out the roots.
• Flush the drain-waste and vent systems whenever you go up onto your house roof to clean out downspouts or gutters. Run water from a garden hose into all vents, giving them a minute or two of full flow.
How do I replace a toilet?
How do I unclog a toilet?
| How do I replace a faucet?
How do I unclog a sink?
|
How do I winterize my plumbing system?
Homeowners who used to simply turn down the thermostat in a vacated house for the winter are now closing down the plumbing system because of prohibitively high energy costs. Winterizing your plumbing is a virtually cost-free alternative to frozen pipes.
1. Turn off the main shutoff valve or have the water company turn off service to the house.
2. Starting at the top floor, open all faucets, both indoors and outside.
3. When the last of the water has dripped from the taps, open the plug at the main shutoff valve if possible (you may have to contact the water
company), and let it drain.
4. Turn off the power or gas to the water heater and open its drain valve.
5. To freezeproof the system, empty toilet bowls and tanks.
6. Remove the clean out plugs on all sink traps or remove the traps, if necessary.
7. Once emptied, replace them and fill with plumbing antifreeze mixed with water in the proportions specified for car in your climate.
8. You won't be able to drain tub and shower taps. Instead, add at least a full quart of antifreeze.
9. Don't put antifreeze into a dishwasher or clothes washer.
10. If your home has a basement floor drain or a main house trap, fill each with full-strength antifreeze.
1. Turn off the main shutoff valve or have the water company turn off service to the house.
2. Starting at the top floor, open all faucets, both indoors and outside.
3. When the last of the water has dripped from the taps, open the plug at the main shutoff valve if possible (you may have to contact the water
company), and let it drain.
4. Turn off the power or gas to the water heater and open its drain valve.
5. To freezeproof the system, empty toilet bowls and tanks.
6. Remove the clean out plugs on all sink traps or remove the traps, if necessary.
7. Once emptied, replace them and fill with plumbing antifreeze mixed with water in the proportions specified for car in your climate.
8. You won't be able to drain tub and shower taps. Instead, add at least a full quart of antifreeze.
9. Don't put antifreeze into a dishwasher or clothes washer.
10. If your home has a basement floor drain or a main house trap, fill each with full-strength antifreeze.
What do I do in the case of a plumbing emergency?
In a plumbing emergency, you'll need to stop the flow of water quickly. To do this, you and each member of your family needs to know the location of the shutoff valve for every fixture and appliance, as well as the main shutoff valve for the house, and how they operate. If the emergency involves a specific fixture or appliance, first look for its shutoff valve and turn it clockwise to shut off the water to that fixture or appliance only. The valve is usually located underneath a fixture such as a sink or a toilet, or behind an appliance, such as a clothes washer, at the point where the water supply pipe (or pipes) connects to it.
If the problem is not with a particular fixture or appliance, or if there's no shutoff valve for the fixture or appliance, use the main shutoff valve to turn off the water supply to the entire house. You'll find the main shutoff valve on the inside or outside of your house where the main water supply pipe enters. Turn the valve clockwise to shut it off. If the main shutoff valve itself is defective and needs to be repaired, call your water company; they can send someone out with the special tool that's required to shut off the water at the street before it reaches the valve.
A Leaking or Broken Pipe
Turn off the main shutoff valve to prevent water damage.
Make temporary repairs to stop the leak.
The pipe will have to be replaced as soon as it's convenient to do so.
A Stopped-Up Sink
Shut off any faucet or appliance (such as dishwasher) that's draining into the sink.
Unclog the sink using a plunger or snake.
DON'T use a chemical drain cleaner if the blockage is total.
A Faucet That Won't Shut Off
Immediately turn off the water at the fixture shutoff valve underneath the sink.
If there's no valve there, turn off the main shutoff valve.
Repair the faucet or, if necessary, replace it.
A Steaming Hot Water Faucet
Open all the hot water faucets to relieve the overheated hot water heater.
Turn off the gas or electric supply to the heater.
Let the faucets run until cold water flows from them (this indicates the water in the heater is no longer overheated).
Close them.
Call in a professional to make any necessary repairs to the heater's thermostat and pressure relief valve.
If the problem is not with a particular fixture or appliance, or if there's no shutoff valve for the fixture or appliance, use the main shutoff valve to turn off the water supply to the entire house. You'll find the main shutoff valve on the inside or outside of your house where the main water supply pipe enters. Turn the valve clockwise to shut it off. If the main shutoff valve itself is defective and needs to be repaired, call your water company; they can send someone out with the special tool that's required to shut off the water at the street before it reaches the valve.
A Leaking or Broken Pipe
Turn off the main shutoff valve to prevent water damage.
Make temporary repairs to stop the leak.
The pipe will have to be replaced as soon as it's convenient to do so.
A Stopped-Up Sink
Shut off any faucet or appliance (such as dishwasher) that's draining into the sink.
Unclog the sink using a plunger or snake.
DON'T use a chemical drain cleaner if the blockage is total.
A Faucet That Won't Shut Off
Immediately turn off the water at the fixture shutoff valve underneath the sink.
If there's no valve there, turn off the main shutoff valve.
Repair the faucet or, if necessary, replace it.
A Steaming Hot Water Faucet
Open all the hot water faucets to relieve the overheated hot water heater.
Turn off the gas or electric supply to the heater.
Let the faucets run until cold water flows from them (this indicates the water in the heater is no longer overheated).
Close them.
Call in a professional to make any necessary repairs to the heater's thermostat and pressure relief valve.
How do I troubleshoot my toilet?
NOISY TOILET
Check for: Restricted water flow or defective ball cock assembly.
Remedies:
Adjust the shutoff valve first.
Oil the trip lever or replace the ball cock washers.
Replace the entire ball cock assembly.
CAUTION: First turn off the water at the fixture shutoff valve. Then flush the toilet to empty the tank and sponge out any remaining water.
RUNNING TOILET
Check for: Float arm not rising high enough, water-filled float ball, tank stopper not seating properly, corroded flush valve seal, cracked overflow
tube, or ball cock valve doesn't shut off.
Remedies:
Bend float arm down or away from tank wall.
Replace ball.
Adjust stopper guide rod and lift wires or chain.
Replace defective stopper.
Scour valve seat or replace.
Replace tube or install new flush valve assembly.
Oil trip lever, replace faulty washers, or install new ball cock assembly.
CLOGGED TOILET
Check for: Blockage in drain.
Remedy:
Remove blockage with plunger or closet auger.
INADEQUATE FLUSH
Check for: Faulty linkage between handle and trip lever, tank stopper closes before tank empties, leak between tank and bowl, clogged flush passages.
Remedies:
Tighten setscrew on handle linkage or replace handle.
Adjust stopper guide rod and lift wires or chain.
Tighten tank bolts or couplings or replace gasket.
Clear obstructions from passages with wire.
LEAKING TOILET
To stop a leak between the tank and bowl of a bowl-mounted toilet tank, tighten the bolts in the tank, or remove them and replace their gaskets.
To seal the connections on a wall-mounted tank, tighten the couplings on the pipe connecting the tank and bowl, or unscrew the couplings, remove the pipe, and replace the washers. If the bowl leaks around its base, you'll have to lift the bowl up and reseal it along the base.
If you don 't want to do this job yourself, call us.
Check for: Restricted water flow or defective ball cock assembly.
Remedies:
Adjust the shutoff valve first.
Oil the trip lever or replace the ball cock washers.
Replace the entire ball cock assembly.
CAUTION: First turn off the water at the fixture shutoff valve. Then flush the toilet to empty the tank and sponge out any remaining water.
RUNNING TOILET
Check for: Float arm not rising high enough, water-filled float ball, tank stopper not seating properly, corroded flush valve seal, cracked overflow
tube, or ball cock valve doesn't shut off.
Remedies:
Bend float arm down or away from tank wall.
Replace ball.
Adjust stopper guide rod and lift wires or chain.
Replace defective stopper.
Scour valve seat or replace.
Replace tube or install new flush valve assembly.
Oil trip lever, replace faulty washers, or install new ball cock assembly.
CLOGGED TOILET
Check for: Blockage in drain.
Remedy:
Remove blockage with plunger or closet auger.
INADEQUATE FLUSH
Check for: Faulty linkage between handle and trip lever, tank stopper closes before tank empties, leak between tank and bowl, clogged flush passages.
Remedies:
Tighten setscrew on handle linkage or replace handle.
Adjust stopper guide rod and lift wires or chain.
Tighten tank bolts or couplings or replace gasket.
Clear obstructions from passages with wire.
LEAKING TOILET
To stop a leak between the tank and bowl of a bowl-mounted toilet tank, tighten the bolts in the tank, or remove them and replace their gaskets.
To seal the connections on a wall-mounted tank, tighten the couplings on the pipe connecting the tank and bowl, or unscrew the couplings, remove the pipe, and replace the washers. If the bowl leaks around its base, you'll have to lift the bowl up and reseal it along the base.
If you don 't want to do this job yourself, call us.
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